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The other day, we were pleased to hear about a new place opening downtown, near Parque Santiago. What kind of place? Well, not the kind of place you can comfortably fit into only one pigeonhole. Casa Catherwood is a tiny little jewel of a renovated townhouse with multiple facets of utility and entertainment in store for residents and visitors to Merida.
According to Louis Nevaer, the proprietor who is an economist and author from New York City, this French-style townhouse has been renovated in a way that would be recognizable to Frederick Catherwood if he were to walk out of history today and into the front door. If that should happen, the first thing Louis would want to show him would be the complete set of Catherwood’s famous lithographs on display in two galleries upstairs. The second thing he might do is invite him for a cup of coffee, but more on that later.
The prints started from drawings made close to Merida, but they have taken a very long time coming back home. Here’s how Louis describes Catherwood and the process of getting these prints to Merida:
The origins of “Casa Frederick Catherwood” begin with the journeys to the Maya World that John Lloyd Stephens, from New York, and Frederick Catherwood, from London, carried out between 1839 and 1841. These journeys resulted in the publication of two books: Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatán published in 1841, and Incidents of Travel in Yucatán, released in 1843. Both books caused a sensation throughout the world. For the first time people realized that the Maya had built magnificent cities, with temples, pyramids and monumental sculpture, equal in stature perhaps to the more famous structures in Egypt. The public the world over, in an era when ancient civilizations were being discovered and appreciated, was enchanted by Frederick Catherwood’s illustrations.
In fact, the public’s fascination was such that the following year, Catherwood published a collection of his favorite illustrations. “Views of Ancient Monuments in Central America, Chiapas & Yucatán,” a folio of the 25 lithographs personally selected by Frederick Catherwood, was published in May 1844 in both London and New York, in a luxury edition of 300 sets. At the time, Catherwood was 45 years old, and at long last he basked in the fame and recognition that had long eluded him, becoming one of the most well-known architects and illustrators in the English-speaking world.
Neither Catherwood nor his companion, Stephens, lived long to enjoy their success. John Lloyd Stephens died in New York on 13 October 1852, after a long and debilitating illness precipitated by malaria he contracted in Panama. Three years later, in a maritime disaster, returning to New York from London, Frederick Catherwood perished in the icy waters of the North Atlantic when his ship, the S.S. Arctic sank on 27 September 1855.
These tragedies notwithstanding, over the century and a half since, the images contained in “Views of Ancient Monuments in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatán” have entered the world’s imagination in no uncertain terms. Today, it is difficult to 
imagine the Maya World without thinking of Frederick Catherwood’s wonderful illustrations.
And now, thanks to Louis Nevaer, these beautiful lithographs (and they are quite beautiful…) are on permanent exhibit here in Merida. The idea of securing a permanent exhibition in Merida for them was a result of a conversation between Fernando Barbachano Gómez Rul (a pioneer in tourism to the Yucatán and ancestor to the current owners of Hacienda Chichen, Casa del Balam Hotel and Mayaland Hotel), and Louis back in 1980. Both men agreed that “it’s time” that the people of and visitors to Merida were able to enjoy Catherwood’s lithographs.
In 1982, Louis, who grew up visiting his mother’s parents in Merida every summer, bought the collection from Arte Primitivo, a shop on the Upper East Side in New York where he lived. For years, he kept the lithographs in his offices in Miami and New York. (In fact, his family owns another folio, acquired in Philadelphia during the American Civil War.)
And if it was "time" then, it can only be "past time" now, right? A quarter century after he purchased the collection, Louis found a Belle Epoch manse in ruins in the historic center of Merida and he decided to give the lithographs a permanent home in the Mundo Maya. Each lithograph is framed using andiroba (carapa guianensis) hardwood imported from Brazil and is displayed consistent with the standards adopted by the National Portrait Gallery in Washington, D.C., according to Louis. The interior of the building includes floors of original mosaicos and local Ticul stone, 21 sets of beautifully refurbished mahogany French doors, antique chandeliers, display cases, writing desks and other vintage furniture original to the mid-nineteenth century. The place itself is almost a mini-museum, a walk back into the time when Stephens and Catherwood were doing what they later became famous for.
In addition to the galleries upstairs, Casa Catherwood includes a museum-like giftshop, with art and history books, jewelry by designers Leticia Orozco Santana, Oscar Figueroa, Alicia de la Paz and some local silversmiths. There is a meeting room available for small groups, with a small (but growing) collection of historic memorabilia. 
The Asociación de Ajedristas de Yucatán (AAY or Chess Players Club of the Yucatan) will be meeting there regularly on Fridays. And there is a room dedicated to Pronatura, a nonprofit conservation organization working in the Yucatán. Their room has been turned into a public information center, teaching about the enormous biodiversity of the Yucatan Peninsula, and is Pronatura’s only presence in the Centro Historico. Pronatura plans to have exhibitions, literature, satellite maps and teachers’ guides available. They have also created a small botanical garden that demonstrates some of the endemic tropical plants of the Yucatan. And on the wall, 
charmingly, are the handprints of the workers who renovated Casa Catherwood, signing their names to their work in the ancient Maya tradition.
OK, here’s where the Starbucks comes in. In the back is a small cafe, where Louis will serve Starbucks brand coffee (and also sell it in bulk). He also plans to serve authentic sangría, as well as select wines from around the world and food, including salads, sorbets, soups and pastries.
Casa Catherwood is located on Calle 59 #572, by Calle 72 across from Parque Santiago. It will be open beginning July 1 from 8 am to 2 pm, and 5 pm to 9 pm, everyday. They have a website too.
You can learn more about Pronatura on their website.
And now, for the more prosaic news. Soon, there will be more than one place to buy Starbucks in Merida. The Working Gringos were recently working in Cancun (yes, we were!) and of course, we could not pass up the chance for a grande Caramel Machiatto and a vente Cafe Mocha every morning (there are now five Starbucks in Cancun that we know of, and two in Playa del Carmen). We must admit to still appreciating this particular aspect of modern American culture.
While we were there, we happened to bemoan the fact that there was nowhere to get these delicious drinks in Merida, and the young man behind the counter informed us that a new Starbucks would be opening where Wendy’s used to be in the parking lot of the Gran Plaza (north of downtown) in October.
We’re pretty sure this is just the beginning (doesn’t take a rocket scientist… ), so by next year, this probably won’t even be a topic of conversation, let alone News. In the meantime, phenomenons from the 19th and 20th centuries that once made history are making the news today in modern Merida, a place where the centuries like to meet for a chat and a cup of coffee.
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The best feature about this particular “museum” is that one doesn’t just go there – see Catherwood’s work – and leave. This “house” is alive and there are reasons to go back and to develop relationships with living people in a living culture. If only all “art” could do that, the world would be a completely different place.
Wow!
Casa Catherwood sounds wonderful.
It looks like we’re planning our trip to the Yucatan, around many of your suggestions!
This is just one more we will add to the list!
Thanks for another lovely article on another lovely place in the Yucatan!
Starbucks! Ho Hum, Yawn.
When I was in Merida, my favorite coffee place was Cafe Cabana (no, not the resturant Cafe Havana), located in Pichetas. My favorite hang out place while I waited for Working Yucateca to get off from El Museo. Starbucks doesn’t excite me too much. I’ll be in Merida October 4-11. Adios for now.
Congratulations to Louis Nevaer, first on bringing this great project to completion, and creating a new opportunity for appreciating the pioneering work of Frederick Catherwood and John Lloyd Stephens in bringing the wonders of Yucatan to the attention of the world, and second, in adding another cultural focus to this lesser known corner of Merida.
Anyone interested in the Yucatan should be familiar with the story of John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood. There are a pair of biographies by an author named von Hagen, I believe, which come up on ebay periodically, and make excellent reading, as do reprints of Stephens’ books, which are unusually free of 19th century florid literary embellishments.
I think I saw this house go up for sale on the various realtors’ websites. Wish I’d bought it…
This place sounds great. (No, the Starbuck’s.) Thanks for the information.
For those of you who are interested in the “re-discovery” of Mayan ruins, “Incidents of Travel in the Yucatan” is wonderful reading. The book also provides a fascinating glimpse into life in the Yucatan – both in Merida and in the campo - in the early 1800s.
For me, one of the most interesting aspects of the book was reading about Catherwood’s and Stephens’ constant battles with two apparently unvanquishable forces: heat and mosquitos. (There’s quite a bit of commentary in the book on these two subjects.) I guess some things never change.
What changed is that now we have air conditioning and refrigerators!
Starbucks! How could you?
I am sickened and saddened by arrival of this chain in Merida. There are so many wonderful local coffee places… This kind of presence robs a place of its soul, killing regional businesses…slowly, but surely. Que lastima!
We’d like to point out that this cafe is a local coffee place, and seems quite wonderful. The fact that they sell Starbucks-brand coffee shouldn’t make you sad.
And the Starbucks cafe by the Gran Plaza? Surely you aren’t sad because it is going to take business away from Segafreddo or Italian Coffee Company, both chains of coffee stores that are inside one of the FOUR malls this city will have in the next two years?
It is progress, and Merida, when it could afford it, has always embraced progress.
2 OR 3 WRONGS DON’T MAKE A RIGHT!! I DON’T LIKE ANY OF THOSE CHAINS…
ANYWAY, FOR THE RECORD, I LOVE YOUR BLOG…MOSTLY…WONDERFUL PIECES ON A PLACE WE ALL LOVE…MUCHAS GRACIAS!
I totally agree with this last remark made “It is progress, and Merida, when it could afford it, has always embraced progress”. Despite of time and era, Merida has continued to have a soul of its own which can be perceived whenever walking through its old streets.
I am fascinated by the efforts done by Mr Nevaer – all my compliments and appreciation. Next week we are traveling to Merida and will certainly visit this place. I wish there were more like it around Merida -just as Starbucks are around Chicago! Excellent note!!
Speaking of chains. Is that WalMart by Plaza Dorada finished yet?
I still like Cafe Cabanas in Pichetas.
Also cafe at VIPS, my favorite resturant.
Where ever you drink your coffee…..provecho.
I was in Riviera Maya in July. On my way back to NJ I bought a Starbucks mug “Playa del Carmen” in the Cancun airport as a gift for an architect friend who collects “skyline” Starbucks mugs. The mug broke on the way home. I called Starbucks, and there is no way to get a replacement, besides flying back to Mexico. Anyone who helps me out with a “Cancun” or “Playa del Carmen” mug I will pay $25 over the cost of the mug and shipping, for your trouble. It is a Christmas present. What do you say?
I just love the passions that the Starbucks and Walmarts awaken! Starbucks doesn’t kill local businesses, local customers kill local businesses by making the decision to choose Starbucks over their local alternative.
It’s like the locals who moan about those darn gringos but do all their shopping in Sams and Costco, effectively killing local businesses.
Besides there are hardly any really local coffee places since coffee was not a big thing in the Yucatan until fairly recently and most are far from charming.
Interesting comments about local coffee houses. Segafreddo and Italian Coffee Company as has been observed are both chains. They are OK. For me the attraction of Starbucks is not just that they roast quality beans but they drip it STRONG. I like my coffee strong and Starbucks and Peets (on the West Coast of the US) consistently server strong coffee, as do many other premier coffee houses in the US and elsewhere, but the average cup of Joe does not cut it for me, quality or strength, and Segafreddo or Italian Coffee Company, neither one gives me a strong cup of coffee.
Hi there, My husband Duffy and I were there at Casa Catherwood a couple weeks ago and met Louis Nevaer there and we would really like to get ahold of him and we can’t find his phone number. Can someone in your office please pass on our info, or tell us how to reach him. Thank you so much, we would really appreciate it!
First of all, on the topic of Starbucks, I am relieved that they finally opened a shop here. Now I don’t have to carry pounds and pounds of it in my suitcase whenever I fly in from the US. The local coffee is awful, except for the Italian one, which has those amazing coconut frappes. Starbucks is a way of life.
Last fall, when I went to Casa Catherwood, I was the only customer and I felt like I’d wandered into a tiny paradise. Those Catherwood prints are magnificent and Mr. Nevaer has gone to the trouble of setting and framing them magnificently. I was mesmerized. Then, I went downstairs and had a cup of my favorite coffee. I was in heaven. At last, a place to drink Starbucks (in a non-corporate atmosphere) in Merida. And it was brewed and served elegantly. Thank you Mr. Nevaer, for a classy addition to our great city.
Hello, Louis. It was great meeting you at Mel & Eric’s Hotel Julamis; I will be back in Merida towards the end of February due to my opening up Escrow in the Centro Historico. My plans do include visiting your Casa Catherwood and of course having a chance to have a quick chat about life in Merida and it’s creative communities and steady improvements. I love Merida and plan to make it my home away from California. See you then!
It sounds to me that Merida is the best of both worlds. The past and all of its charms is still in place. The people are the same – friendly and warm to norte Americanos who want to come to find a more peaceful and beautiful life.
There is also the convenience of being able to buy things one needs. For some, just being able to find a “comfort” product, whether it is a special coffee or even a beautiful coffee mug makes life just a little bit better.
Personally, I don’t “hate” any particular thing. Starbucks is, of course, everywhere now and I enjoy a cup now and then. My preference is Peets if it is available. My absolute favorite coffee, however, is Rio Intag, from Ecuador. I drove the 38 miles from Cotacachi to Apuela in 3 1/2 hours during the muddy season to buy 50 pounds of this fabulous and very limited coffee. Now, I am sad that I won’t have it in Merida, but, guess what? I bet that I will find something there that satisfies me the same, maybe not a coffee, but it will be something else that is unique to Merida.
My humble opinion is that we all have preferences and if we travel we really have to get over them or be miserable! I am one who used to bash Wal-Mart – but not any more. Our local SuperCenter is the closest place I can buy even remotely fresh fruits and veggies and it takes me half the day to make the trip and come home. My favorite thing about Wal-Mart in the states? $4.00 generic prescriptions! Also, the local Wal-Mart provides employment to a lot of local people My husband, who was born and raised in Eastern Colorado, loves to visit with the “greeters”, a retired couple who are now happily greeting their friends and family who come to Wal-Mart and shop. My husband has know this couple for decades – they are in their seventies and are retired. They are enjoying life and are proud to have worked for this store since its opening.
So, Merida looks like a great place to me. I can enjoy the Ancient wonders, visit the beach, meet wonderful new people – and go to a store I know when I need something that I might not otherwise find.
Thanks, Working Gringos, for providing such a wonderful site. I have been to other places in Mexico but this will be my first time in Merida. Because of your wonderful site and all the news, good, bad and indifferent, I think I am gonna love the place!
Jimmie and Gary in Eastern Colorado
Louis,
Your gallery is wonderfull. The images on display transport one through centuries of Yucatan history. Important because anyone living in or visiting Merida and the Yucatan can actually visit these ruins and get a real sense of what the region and people are about.
Bravo!
Congrats on a great niche art market. We are frequent visitors to Isla Mujeres, our favorite island in the world (just west of Cancun) and years ago, we became familiar with Sir Frederick Catherwood’s sketches while visiting Chichen Itza and we were floored. Since then, we have gathered what we could of his, but now we will have good reason to take that long talked about trip to the beautiful town of Merida! I believe Sir Frederick had no heirs, but we claim him anyway because we love the Mayan world! PS- I’d love to retire to Isla…would you consider franchising?
For thirty years now I’ve been slowly retracing Stephens and Catherwoods travels through the Yucatan. Congratulations to Luis Nevaer for bringing Catherwood home to Merida. Coming over the hill between Santa Elena and seeing Ticul still fills me with a sense wonder and I recall the words that Stephens used when he described the same sight. You can still go to Ticul and see the tree-branch bull ring during a vaqueria exactly like Stephens described it in 1847. The Caste War came as Stephens and Catherwood traveled through the monte, and many of the Maya sites, those centers of learning and centers of commerce, were abandoned not centuries before, but in the time of Stephens.
This June I took students to Coba and showed them where Maya people still burn candles and incense in front of one of the temples dedicated to Chac, the rain god late at night when the guards leave (or maybe with the guards?).
As several people have mentioned, Merida, and the peninsula of Yucatan, embrace change and progress. Even with that, I am sure the architect Catherwood would still feel at home there.
Some good coffee is in Palenque city, organic “Cafe Te’el.” In Yucatan, coffee is more about being with people (like at the old Express Cafe) than the taste, so Starbucks is welcomed. Yucatecans make great chocolate anyway!
Had dinner at Catherwood when we were in Merida. I loved my salad nicoise but my husband’s “pizza” was a bomb…As for Starbucks..I was first excited that I could get Starbucks but that was because my memory of Mexico was that I could just get instant coffee. That was in the early 90s and not in Merida. But, my opinion has changed about Starbucks and I realize there are wonderful coffee shops owned by small business owners and I would rather support their shops than the chain. There were 4 Starbucks that I heard of and that’s four too many. Yes, there are some benifits to getting those special drinks, like going to Walmart for the familiar feeling, but “when in Mexico, support Mexicans”.
I live in Canada and it is great to see people still remember Fredrick Catherwood, he did a lot of great things, and when I can, I am going to visit and see the places he has walked on, and he must have had a great time doing it. Thanks for keeping his memery alive, Well stay well and have fun.
Tom Catherwood. Out.
PS. If you are a Catherwood we could be releated, I have cousenes in the vergin islands, ingland, and many other places, so take care, thanks.
Felicidades su galeria. Es formidable al rescatar una parte de nuestra historia del sureste de Mexico y de Centroamerica. Las litografias son maravillosas con un estilo propio de la epoca.
Editor’s translation: Congratulations on your gallery. It’s great that you are rescuing a part of the history of Mexico and Central America. The lithographs are marvelous in a style unique to their time.
i have aquired a set of arte maya lithograths, there are eight in total all in a folder, art work by frederick catherwood. could you tell me if it would be worth keeping, they are dated 1844, i would be very grateful for your answer
We asked Mr. Navaer what to do, and he said to consult the http://www.abaa.org/books/abaa/index.html or the http://www.americanantiquarian.org/ listings to find someone near your home that can take a look at your lithographs. Only an expert can tell if they are authentic and he/she has to see them to check.
My maiden name is catherwood and would be very interested in finding out more about this cofee house