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Learning Spanish in Merida

Merida's Cathedral in the Plaza GrandeAbout two or three times a week, we are asked why we moved from California to the Yucatan. And when we answer, we are reminded that one of the main reasons we came here was to learn a second language. We briefly considered setting up shop on the island of Bali, but decided that speaking Indonesian was not going to be very helpful outside of Indonesia. Spanish, on the other hand, seems to be one of the most useful languages we could learn.

In 2002 we arrived with a lot of English writing and speaking skills (Working Gringo even has a degree in English!), and might have even been considered erudite in certain circles. But with only California place-names and one semester of a UCLA Spanish course under our collective belts, we were at a preschool level when it came to speaking Spanish. This was nothing if not a humbling experience.

As we were just normal gringos when we first arrived (we weren’t Working Gringos quite yet), we spent our days in the streets of Merida exploring, paying bills, finding needed items, and learning about our new community. We would come home exhausted at the end of the day with the stress of trying to communicate in this new foreign language. We would huddle in the living room, watching the Warner Channel on television just to hear spoken English. The comfort value was almost as good as a cup of hot tea and a cookie.

But the next day, we’d be ready again to brave the language immersion, and indeed, immersion is the best policy when it comes to switching idiomas (languages) . Five years later, we no longer need to watch the Warner Channel, though the voice of the announcer reminds us of our early days here. We are far from fluent, but we no longer dread making a phone call to order food or inquiring about a strange charge on our bill at Telmex. We can even hold passable conversations with our Spanish-speaking friends about everything from what our children are studying in school to what we think about current events.

How did we get from there to here? When we first moved here, we took formal classes. We chose the Benjamin Franklin Institute because at the time, they provided the only classroom situation we could find without having to ask directions. The three of us (one of our daughters was here with us) took classes three mornings a week, struggling through grammar and pronunciation. If we had to do it over, we would still make a point of learning the basics, but some of us might have chosen a different venue, as we discovered that we all learned differently and at a different pace.

Learning Spanish with Oscar in the Merida CemeteryAt the same time, we hired a young bilingual Yucateco who had been introduced to us. His name was Oscar and we paid him to walk around town with us, explaining to us how things worked and helping us learn the names for places and things. Oscar was a kind, fun and thoughtful young man (who has since moved to Toronto… hola, Oscar!) and we have fond memories of our days of wandering through the markets and streets of Merida, Kanasin and even San Cristobal in Chiapas.

Where we really started to learn our day-to-day Spanish, however, was where the rubber meets the road: when we had to. We learned to communicate with the albañiles working on our office restoration, with the woman who cleaned our house and with Jose on the street where we parked our car. We learned to talk with our neighbor who took us to la corrida (a bullfight), with our other neighbor who fixed our plumbing and eventually with our clients who came to us for help promoting their services to an English-speaking public. None of this would have worked as well, of course, if we hadn’t had that foundation in grammar and pronunciation.

We have learned that our experiences are not particularly unique. Many expats who come here to live either see learning Spanish as a gift or a necessity. And everyone trying to learn Spanish in Mexico remarks about how helpful and patient the locals are in listening, communicating and teaching their language. Anyone who has spent any time in France trying to use their high-school French will understand how important it is that the locals enjoy your attempts at mangling their native tongue.

Another Spanish TeacherOftentimes, we have enjoyed conversations with waiters or bus drivers or tour guides who are happy to exchange on-the-spot Spanish lessons for a few English lessons in return. And listening to how Spanish speakers mangle English has taught us how Spanish language works. As we try to fit Spanish into the syntax and expressions that are comfortable in English, we realize that our Spanish-speaking friends are doing the same in reverse. Parsing those mistakes teaches us how to do it right in Spanish. Entiendes?

Learning Spanish is not just for those of us who live here. Turistas (tourists) come to Merida for the express purpose of learning Spanish. On extended vacation for anywhere from a week to several months, they come for immersion programs with one of the local schools. They stay with local families, attend classes (usually in the morning) and go on field trips. All in Spanish, of course. Merida is becoming more and more popular as a destination for this type of study, competing with cities in Guatemala and other parts of Mexico.

In the spirit of assisting our fellow extranjeros (foreigners) in developing their Spanish language skills, or in helping travelers find local Spanish language schools, we are listing here the schools in Merida that we know and can recommend. Some are better than others, and when choosing a school for yourself, it is important to remember that everyone’s learning needs are different. Most schools have classes that start every Monday. Some have programs that seem geared towards college students, while others might be more appropriate for adult learners. We highly recommend that you speak on the phone or correspond with the school to ask them questions before you sign up, but we’re pretty sure that no matter which one you choose, you’ll enjoy your experience and you will learn some Spanish!

We are also listing the names of some language tutors that we know, though this is a more fluid list. We encourage you to write us with your recommendations if you have found a good tutor and we will include them in our list. If you are in Merida, check the bulletin board at the Merida English Library for tutors offering their services.

Before the list, however, we’d like to add a few thoughts for you to consider.

Learning Spanish has probably been one of the most mind-altering events of our adult lives, although the effect has not been sudden or dramatic, nor particularly obvious to an outside observer.

Learning Spanish has had the effect of rearranging the furniture of our understanding of the world around us.

Learning Spanish has given us insight into the entire Latin culture that makes up such a large part of the world and its history.

Learning Spanish has taught us subtleties and nuances in life that as English speakers we had never considered.

Learning Spanish has opened up cracks in our worldview, allowing us a glimpse into an entirely new way of looking at the world.

Learning Spanish has given us an appreciation for the way that Spanish-speaking people think, talk, love, party, plan, lie, count, pray, learn… it has taught us that it is probably impossible to really grok people who speak a different language until you live like one of them.

And more than anything, it has given us an increased appreciation for the intricate, infinite, delicate, magnificent and awesome differences that all somehow dance together to form humanity.

As you try to wrap your tongue around yet another verb tense, we encourage you also to keep in mind the well-accepted fact that Spanish is one of the easiest languages to learn. English is one of the hardest. It has given us a new appreciation for all the Mexicans in the US that we know who have learned to speak English.

We wish we had enough lifetimes to learn other languages, and to appreciate the myriad cultures that they represent. We are grateful for this time and opportunity to learn Spanish. And we can only wish you the same paradigm-bending experience.

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Benjamin Franklin InstituteBenjamin Franklin Institute
Phone: +52-999-928-6005
Website: www.benjaminfranklin.com.mx
Contact: Rosy Cetina
Address: Calle 57 #474-A x 52 y 54, Centro
Homestay: They will provide names of families, but do not have a formal program
Languages taught: Spanish, English
Classroom or Private Tutoring: Both
YL Notes: Housed in a big old colonial building, this is the granddaddy of language schools here in Merida. They teach Spanish to foreigners but we think the bulk of their activity is teaching English to locals (they are the oldest English-teaching outfit in Merida).

 

CIS - Centro de Idiomas SuresteCIS - Centro de Idiomas Sureste
Phone: +52-999-923-0954 (Centro), 926-9494 (Norte), 920-2810 (García Ginéres)
Website: www.cisyucatan.com.mx
Contact: Chloe Pacheco, Director or Jose Luis Lopez Espinosa , Spanish Program Coordinator
Address: Calle 52 #455 x 49 y 51 (Centro), Calle 11 #203-C x 26, Col. García Ginéres, and Calle 14 #106 x 25, Col. Mexico
Homestay: Yes
Languages taught: Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, Japanese
Classroom or Private Tutoring: Both, as well as Business Language classes to companies.
YL Notes: With three locations and a wide variety of languages taught, CIS seems to us to be the most serious linguistic training school here. Chloe Pacheco came here in 1968. She started working with CIS in 1978, teaching English. She and her husband purchased the school in 1980 and have been running it ever since. Their most popular Spanish course is a 5-day/week, 5-hour-day Intensive class that has classroom in the mornings and cultural activities in the afternoons. It is the oldest Spanish-teaching program in Merida. They also have special classes for Yucatan residents conducted every week at 5 pm for an hour and a half.

Institute of Modern SpanishInstitute of Modern Spanish
Phone:
+52-999-911-0790 or toll-free 1-800-4MERIDA
Website: www.modernspanish.com
Contact: Miguel Ceron, Director. Our contact was Janese Ott.
Address: Calle 15 #520B x 16A y 18, Col. Maya
Homestay: Yes
Languages taught: Spanish
Classroom or Private Tutoring: Classroom training or Private classes. Also have business training.
YL Notes: The Institute of Modern Spanish is geared to those people who are coming to Merida to learn the language and immerse themselves in the culture. Classes are held in Spanish, but they also have other offerings such as Business Spanish, Mayan Culture, Yucatan History and Spanish-American Literature. They also provide students with the option of booking tours of the local sites as well as participating in student excursions (at an extra cost). They can provide college credit for programs of two weeks or more. They also have a program for assisting local children with their English, to help students offsite the cost of their programs.

Instituto de Lengua y Cultura de Yucatan
Phone:
+52-999-125-3048
Website: www.ilcymex.com
Contact: Cecilia Novelo
Address: Calle 13 No. 214 x 28 y 30, Col. Garcia Gineres
Homestay: Yes
Languages taught: Spanish
Classroom or Private Tutoring: Classroom
YL Notes: This school offers Spanish language training in an immersion program of their own design. They combine classroom training with real-life situations such as going to the bank or cooking a meal. They also provide specialized classes upon request such as Spanish for Legal, Medical or Diplomatic needs.

Lengua AlternativaLengua Alternativa
Phone:
+52-999-943-9181
Website: www.lengualternativa.com
Address: Calle 37 No. 539 x 72a y 74, Col. García Ginéres
Homestay: Yes
Languages taught: Spanish
Classroom or Private Tutoring: Classroom training and private tutoring.
YL Notes: This school offers ten levels of Spanish instruction. The average length of stay for their students is 12-16 weeks. They cater to college students taking Spanish for credit. They also offer holiday courses for families wishing to study together, as well as Spanish for Business, Secretaries & Assistants, Medicine & Healthcare, Emergency Personnel and for Teachers.

MJ InternationalMJ International
Phone:
+52-999-925-4692
Website: none
Contact: Gabriela Bojorquez
Address: Calle 13 #214 x 28 y 30, Col. García Ginéres
Homestay: No
Languages taught: Spanish
Classroom or Private Tutoring: Tutoring only.
YL Notes: This school has five English-speaking Spanish teachers who are available for one-on-one tutoring. They also have teachers who can teach French or German.

 

Alianza Francesa
Phone:
+52-999-927-2403
Website: none
Contact: Diana Castillo
Address: Calle 23 #117 x 24, Colonia México
Homestay: No
Languages taught: Spanish, French
Classroom or Private Tutoring: Private tutoring only.
YL Notes: Alianza Francesa is where local families send their children to learn French. But they also teach Spanish… but not Mexican Spanish, Latin American Spanish. They teach writing and reading, speaking and listening. One of their teachers speaks English, and the rest are Spanish or French (or both) speakers.

 

Spanish Language Tutors:

Rafael Curiel - 044-999-129-4017 (cel). 10 years experience teaching Spanish and English. He can be reached via email at vitalous@hotmail.com
Ricardo Alfonso - 044-999-228-7310 (cel), Masters degree in Education. He can also be reached by email at rifago@hotmail.com

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Interested in languages? You might like our article on basics of the Mayan language.

If you are looking for schools for your children in Merida, read our article on Schools.

 


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31 Responses to “Learning Spanish in Merida”

  1. Once again, thanks for an informative and well-written article. I spent July ‘06 studying at Centro de Idiomas del Sureste’s school in the North part of the city, and it was a wonderful experience. In addition to offering beginner, intermediate and advanced courses in Spanish, English and several other languages for children and adults alike, they offer specialized courses such as the one I participated in: a study of Mayan history/archeology and Mayan/Yucatecan literature. The school is well run and the staff and instructors are personable and knowledgeable. Highly recommended.

  2. I can give spanish lessons too, I have a degree in swearing 8-)

  3. Great article once again. I am looking forward to the challenge of re-educating myself in Spanish. The immersion system works best from my perspective as went through that as a child when my parents moved back to Holland and it was either pick up the language or not play with the other children. Then to school in Canada and learning French. Lots of fun, not.

  4. Ah, but now you speak all those languages! What a gift!!

  5. You continue to impress me with your well-composed, interesting, fun-to-read, and helpful articles. I’m based in Puerto Morelos and I will look thru your sites provided to see if I can create something there - but I wish you were closer to me. In that way, I’d learn all these great things about my region. The best way to learn is by teaching, so maybe, as a retired English teacher from Canada, I should contribute some informative, “roving-reporter” articles from my town’s perspective to you - please email me if you’re interested.

  6. i remember when i got into the us,the immigration officer asked me something and i was like WHAT?????,and then he spoke slowly to me,and then i picked up, what is the reason of your visit?, and i answered him,with my poor english,and i did not speak english for a while,because i was always around mexicans and about almost three years ago i had to learn,cos i got this job in HVAC,and everything was in english,then i started going to school for hvac and the same there’s no spanish class now i think i speak ok,more or less i do not have trouble ordering pizza no more,or going to the chinese,or even going to an american restaurant,or speaking to people,my boss,etc,but there is one thing i noticed recently if i am going to talk to an american i kind of set up my brain for english and then he speaks to me in spanish even the only thing he knows is :BUENOS DIAS,COMO ESTAS?,my brain sort of goes blank for a second and then keeps going,i just wanted to share the other side from spanish to english,i can teach you people to speak spanish no charge.have a nice day.

  7. Thank you for the compliment! And Manuelito, we have noticed that sometimes Spanish-speaking people don’t understand us at first, and it must be that they are expecting us to speak English. Gracias for your perspective. It’s good to hear from you again!

  8. Being a son of a Mexican father and a white mother from S. Carolina, we spoke little espanol in our house. So, like most 2nd, 3rd, and 4th generation chicanos, espanol was soon forgotten. I didnt begin to appreciate the beauty of espanol until in my 30’s. When I met Ariadna (who spoke very little ingles) and moved to Merida, it gave me an opportunity to emerse myself in espanol. 1 day at Walmart, we ran into a Canadian man, who was also married to a Yucateca (like me). He asked me where all the english speakers were, cause he used his wife as a translator. I said: they are scattered through out Merida, and are not Centrally located. I told my wife Ariadna, how sad it was for this man not to learn espanol and only rely on his wife as a translator. Though espanol was hard for me, I was making an effort to learn, so I can talk with the Yucatecos in Merida. I say it is good to learn espanol and other languages. Just as I encourage the Ilegals here to learn Ingles, for their benefit.

  9. …and the best fun of all… the gales of laughter when the young men on the garbage truck take you - and your Spanish - on as a “project” - we laughed, we laughed, we laughed - as they attempted to improve my Spanish in twice weekly “drive-by” lessons… the poor driver would just shake his head and smile… but I wouldn’t have missed it for the world!!!

  10. Wonderful article!!! I have been hoping for just this kind of info. Having greater detail about how the classes are taught, etc. makes all the difference(not to mention having the legitimacy of referral status with you. I hope to take classes there soon, but was wondering if there are any such classes or tutors in the Progreso area? It is a 45 min drive from my place to Merida, so for convenience sake, Progreso classes would be preferable.
    Thanks.

  11. I’m a volunteer English teacher with Intercambio de Comunidades in Boulder. I know exactly what is meant when people say the best way to learn another language is to try to teach your own to people who are learning to speak it. All the grammar I learned in grade school I took for granted - never gave it a thought. Never, that is, until my students started asking me why we say things the way we say them in English. I had to go buy some books from Amazon dot com that show English and Spanish grammar side-by-side. I think it helps me as much as it helps them. You can only go so far in learning a different language without having to tackle basic grammar. The longer you put it off, the slower you will get to your goal.

    This is a great website, by the way.

  12. Thank you! And thanks for your comments. That sounds like a great book…can you tell us the title?

  13. My wife and I are contemplating part time retirement in Mexico and definitely wanting to learn Spanish. There is a large Hispanic contingent where we live and it could be useful here as well. I am aware that a software program can’t teach you to be fluent but have you heard of any that can help? We’ve heard good things about Rosetta Stone but have no experience with it. I’m sure a class and immersion are better but our schedules at present don’t allow for either.
    I’ve found your website to be very informative, entertaining and well written.The more I read, the more my interest in Mexico,(especially the Yucatan), is piqued. Keep up the fantastic work.

    -Soggy in the Northwest

  14. Hola, Soggy! We used a series of Spanish language CDs when we were first learning. I think there are a lot of good ones, and you really can’t go too wrong. The best thing to do would be to make a Spanish-speaking friend and make a deal to teach them English if they’ll teach you Spanish. Hang out together, have fun, and learn how to say it all in Spanish!
    Thanks for the compliments on the website…we intend to keep doing it! Stay tuned for more interesting things to come.

  15. We used Raffie for private tutoring in Spanish for 6 weeks and were very pleased. He tailored lessons to our individual levels and needs and provided homework and personal interaction at the appropriate level. We plan to use him when we return again next year.

  16. This is a wonderful website that I stumbled upon today. My sister and I are planning a trip to Merida in late November so I am finding all of this information very valuable. Before reading your article on language schools, I had pretty much decided on The Spanish Institue of Merida, but don’t see them in your list. Do you have any information on that school? Are they not listed because you don’t recommend them? Any information would be appreciated. Again, thanks for the website.

  17. Dear Jaime,

    The list of schools above is indeed shorter than the number of Spanish language and cultural immersion schools in Merida, which are an industry here. The schools we listed are the most frequently suggested by those we we know, but by no means should that imply they are the only worthy schools.

    Let us know about your experience at the Spanish Institute of Merida. If it is positive, we would be happy to include them in the list above.

  18. I am interested in taking intensive spanish class for 2 weeks. I also like to do some volunteer work, learn to cook, dance, and do sight seeing. would you recommend me the reliable one? thank you.

  19. This is fun to read. I studied during 2001 for about 6 weeks at the Benjamin Franklin institute while staying at a nearby hotel. The experience of getting to know the city of Merida, its people and the culture was tremendous, and it was a much less expensive way to brush up on some espanol that I’d let languish since my semester abroad in Espana many years before. I’ve since been back to Yucatan and Merida a few times, and always love the charming times there. Street vendors ended up being probably my best sources for mini-lessons, as they would always sit for a coca on a hot day and talk to you about their lives, or their city, and after seeing you around a few times and talking to you for a bit they even stop pushing nylon hamacas quite so hard!!!

  20. I can give spanish lessons too. I am a teacher

  21. Thanks for the informative article.
    Which of schools reviewed, would be best suited for a 60 old who would like to learn Spanish for traveling in Mexico.

  22. Hallo,
    from my fresh experiences I can recommend you here in Merida the Ecora School, which is located in the “Francisco Montejo” northern part of city.
    More info on their pages:
    http://www.idiomasecora.com
    BR,
    Michal

  23. I was in the Yucatan for a month last winter and loved the week I spent in Merida. I plan to come back for 6-8 weeks in Jan/Feb 2008. Since learning Spanish is one of my priorities your article on lanuage schools was very informative and helpful. Leaning toward private instruction and accommodations at this point. Also looking for someone who could give me lessons on guitar and/or requinto. Wonder if you have any suggestions?

    Thanx, Gary

  24. I am looking to go to language school in march in Merida and your info. will be most helpful. I was wondering if you have heard of a school by the name Spanish Institute Of Merida? and how they might match up to the list that you have?
    Thanks
    Pablo

  25. Thanks so much…I stumbled on your article while looking for Spanish lang. schools in Merida. It was very helpful. Any comments on which schools are more likely to have older students? I am definitely a senior at 68 yrs. old!!

  26. We’re pretty sure all the schools will welcome older students. You might also try private lessons where teachers can tailor the lessons to your level of age and experience. We have listed three very competent (and recommended) teachers in this article.

  27. We have two boys 7 and 11 and are coming back to the Yucatan/Central America for our third winter. We would like to hire a young person to travel with us as a tutor/assistant and exchange language. We were going to put up a flyer at Benjiman Franklin. Have you any ideas ?
    PS Just discovered your site. Fantastic!

  28. We are planning on sending our son to a spanish immersion program in Merida this summer ‘08 before he enters college in the fall. He is a 5th yr spanish student and hopes to become fluent enough to take his junior year studies at the University of Costa Rica (with future goals of joining the Peace Corps). He has time for a 4wk program this summer and we have been trying to decide where he should go. He does want the homestay experience. As others have mentioned here already, I found The Spanish Institute of Merida. It appears to be the most prominent on the internet searches. The Instructor I spoke with over the phone was very helpful. Still, I would feel better about the decision if I had solid independent recommendations. When I didn’t see it on your list, I wonder which of the schools you recommend for our situation?

  29. What Mayan languages are spoken in Merida? Is there any formal instruction in any of the Mayan languages? Are all public schools taught in Spanish only? Are there any summer camps for English speakers wishing to learn Spanish?

  30. I did a lot of research before choosing a Spanish Language School in Mexico. I attended the Spanish Institute of Merida during the month of January 2008 and my experience was great. I really think you should consider to mention this school in your previous list.
    Saludos!
    Andres

  31. I was a teacher at C.I.S in the late 80’s. I taught for three years and am looking
    forward to returning to merida and teaching again

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