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Yucatan Plumbing


So you’ve just bought your colonial home in the historical center of Merida, moved in all your furniture and planted a couple bougainvilleas in the patio. You step up to the bathroom sink to wash your hands, but when you turn on the faucet, nothing happens. If you’re like us, your first instinct is to ask your partner if they forgot to pay the water bill. Your next instinct is to call the water company and complain.

But here in the Yucatan, the problem is you have an empty tinaco (tee-NAH-koh).

Newcomers to Merida are usually not prepared for the differences in plomería (plumbing) here in Mexico. Back in the States, the water company generally provides enough pressure to deliver water right to your faucets. This is usually accomplished by pumping the water to a higher elevation and letting gravity do its work.

In Mexico the costs of pumping water through the antiquated water distribution systems in these old cities would increase the price of delivery, and many of the local residents would not be pleased (although the monthly water bill for our house is $70 pesos – less than seven dollars). As for using gravity to deliver the water, everyone here knows that the Yucatan is as flat as a tortilla (the highest elevation is probably the top floor of the Hyatt Hotel downtown). Consequently, the water pressure provided by the city is unreliable at best.

For these reasons and others, houses are equipped with a water storage tank, called a tinaco, located on the roof, usually sitting high on a pedestal. The height of the tinaco and the diameter of the tuberías (pipes) determine how much water pressure you have. In some areas, city water pressure is capable of filling your tinaco. But it’s not wise to rely on it. So a more elaborate plumbing system is designed into most houses. This system is illustrated in the diagram below.

The tinaco is a plastic tank, usually coated inside with an anti-fungal chemical layer. It has a screw-on lid and an inlet on the side near the top and an outlet with a valve coming out the opposite side near the bottom. The most common manufacturer around here is Rotoplas. The standard tinaco holds 1,100 liters (290 gallons) of water and costs about $700 pesos.

As you drain your tinaco, a flotador in the tank detects the falling water level. There are two types of flotador, a mechanical version that operates a valve, much like the kind in your toilet, and an electrical version that closes an internal switch. If your tinaco is receiving water directly from the city water system, the flotador will simply open a valve as the water level falls.

But, as shown in the diagram, most tinacos have an electrical flotador, which is on a rather long leash. When the water level falls to about 1/3 full, the flotador inverts, the switch inside closes and turns on a bomba (pump) somewhere in your house, usually on the ground floor.

The bomba is typically a ½ horsepower pump that draws water up from your cisterna (cistern) and sends it flowing into your tinaco. Your cisterna is always underground somewhere and accessed by a hatch. Often, the cisterna is nothing more than a buried tinaco, but it may be an older and larger construction made of concrete. Once the tinaco is full, the electrical flotador in the tinaco flips back over and turns off the pump. As water is pumped out of your cisterna, the mechanical flotador drops down and opens a valve, which lets the low-pressure city water flow in, keeping the cisterna filled.

There are generally some water sources around the house that are not part of the plumbing system described above. The water for your mangueras (hoses), fountains and irrigation are probably delivered directly from the city water system. This is important to remember, as we will see in a moment. Also, many people with swimming pools fill them from a dedicated pozo (well).

Now that we know how the plumbing around here works, what should be our first move after we turn off the (non-performing) faucet with our dirty hands? Well, use a hose in your backyard to wash up. If water flows out of the hose, then the water company isn’t to blame.

Next, find the bomba that pumps water up to your tinaco. Every homeowner should learn where this and the circuit breaker or switch that powers it are located. You need to know this not only to service the tinaco, but in case a big storm or hurricane blows into town, you’ll want to turn off your system to avoid contamination from the city water that may occur during flooding. Your bomba will most likely be hidden away in a room in the house that’s located below the tinaco.

If the bomba is running, turn it off. Then, “echale un ojo al tinaco” (literally, “throw an eye at the tinaco”, but it means “check the tinaco”). Your house undoubtedly has access to the roof or at least a ladder, so climb up there, unscrew the lid on your tinaco and peer inside.

If there’s water down there, then check the outlet valve and make sure it’s open. If it is, the handle will be going the same direction as the pipe. On the inlet side of the tinaco is (at least) a paso uno filtro (first stage filter), which blocks any sand or small particles that may have traveled up from the cisterna. The plastic case is unscrewed by hand and the paper filter inside is replaced. You should replace this filter every three months. If it hasn’t been replaced regularly, it is probably clogged and inhibiting the flow of water. You can buy these filters at most local tlapalería or ferreteria (words for hardware stores), or even at Home Depot.

If the tinaco is empty, reach in and pull out the electric flotador. If it’s not full of water and you hear a ball bearing rolling back and forth inside, then it’s probably okay. Otherwise, it’s a candidate for replacement as well. We recommend the type of flotador pictured here, which has proven to be very reliable and long lasting.

If none of these issues seem to be the problem, then climb back down and return to the bomba. If you turn on the switch and the bomba doesn’t operate, then you either have a bad flotador, a dead bomba (not likely) or a bad power switch. Call a plomero (plumber). He will be able to solve any of these problems, because here in Yucatan, plumbers are both plumbers and electricians. Handy, no? The most expensive repair among these problems is replacing the bomba. They cost about $650 pesos for a new one, plus a couple hundred pesos for labor.

If the bomba does run when you turn on the switch but no water was in the tinaco, it could mean the pump has failed, but this rarely happens. In our experience, bombas last many years. Much more commonly, the bomba has lost its “prime”, which means there is no water in the pipe coming from the cisterna for the bomba to pump.

Check your cisterna. It’s probably under your patio or in the back yard. Lift up the hatch, unscrew the lid and make sure there’s water inside. If not, the mechanical flotador has seized up. You can usually loosen it with a spritz of WD-40 and a wiggle or two, but if it looks too old and rusty, you might as well replace it.

Note: WD-40 is to the Yucatan what duct tape is to the rest of the world. Always keep a can on hand and don’t be afraid to use it around plumbing. It is non-toxic.

If there’s water in the cisterna, then take a look at the diagram again. You’ll notice a strange little valve at the end of the pipe that descends into the cisterna. This is called the pichancha. Its job is to prevent water from flowing out of the pipe and back into the cisterna so that the pipe and pump will always be full of water. There are several styles of pichancha and the most common are also the least reliable. We have found that the style shown in the photo, which has a Teflon-coated valve and is available from Boxito or Surpesa for less than $150 pesos, is the best style available here in Merida. A leaky pichancha and loss of prime in the pump is the most common culprit that causes the whole system to fail.

If the system has not been used for a while (which is common in rental or vacation homes), the bomba will lose its prime even with a good pichancha. If you aren’t afraid to use a pipe wrench, you can prime the pump and find out if the problem is caused by a leaky pinchancha or just disuse.

In the diagram, you’ll notice a funny little branch of pipe coming off the pipe that exits the bomba upwards on its way to the tinaco. It is capped and can be unscrewed using a pipe wrench. This is where you prime the bomba. Go fill a container, such as a pitcher or empty two-liter coke bottle, with water from your garden hose. Return to your bomba and SLOWLY unscrew the cap counter-clockwise. If water starts to squirt out, then the pump is already primed, but you probably have a weak or faulty bomba. Tighten the cap, stop here and call a plomero.

But in most cases you’ll find that the pipe is dry as a bone. Slowly pour water into it until it fills. This may take several trips to the garden hose, depending on the size of your container and how much pipe there is between the bomba and the cisterna. Once the pipe is full, let it stand for several minutes. If you poured too fast, there may be air trapped in the pipe that needs to settle. Refill if necessary.

If the pipe never seems to fill, then you have a leaky pichancha. Time to call that plomero unless you really feel like tackling the job yourself.

If the water stands level with the top of the priming pipe for several minutes, then recap the pipe firmly and flip on the switch that powers the bomba.

There are several ways to see if your handiwork has solved the problem. The most obvious is to leave a faucet open and wait a few minutes for water to flow. Another is to climb back up to the tinaco and see if water is flowing into it (which you should do if you forgot to screw the lid back on; always leave the lid of your tinaco firmly in place). Yet another is to check the cisterna to see if the water level is falling. Or you can turn off the pump, SLOWLY unscrew the priming cap and see if water squirts out.

If the procedure for priming the bomba isn’t effective the first time, you may have to repeat it once or twice more to work any trapped air out of the system. If you do not seem to make any progress, or just get exasperated, call a plomero. They are quite capable and very affordable.

There are several enhancements or improvements that many new arrivals to Merida are incorporating into their plumbing systems. One of these is a small, pressure-activated pump that is installed in-line with the output of the tinaco. When a faucet is opened or a toilet is flushed, the drop in pressure turns on the pump and increases the flow. If your tinaco is not located at an elevation high enough for sufficient water pressure, this inexpensive solution may be for you.

Others are installing large-scale electric water pressure systems. These are usually located in an “equipment room” and power a pump that maintains constant water pressure inside a metal tank that feeds the house plumbing. The main disadvantage to these systems is evident during a blackout. Without electricity, there is no water available to the home. Consequently, these systems are always installed with a standard tinaco system as a backup.

Yucatan is notorious for its hard water. The limestone aquifer through which the local water percolates makes it rich in minerals, especially calcium, which we call “scale” but in Spanish is called sarro. The white, crusty deposits clog showerheads, reduce the efficiency of water heaters and ruin washing machines.

Rotoplas, the company that makes the tinacos, offers a stage two filter that consists of a permanent magnet wrapped around a plastic pipe. It is installed in-line after the stage one filter described above. The magnet interferes with the ionic bonding between calcium and other minerals that create scale, thus reducing the deposits. The minerals are still in the water, but the sarro doesn’t have a chance to form. Standard water softening systems that remove the minerals using salt and reverse osmosis are also readily available in Merida.

If you’ve read to the end of this article, we are really surprised. This kind of article is written for a do-it-yourself kind of person, or for those who have a lot of curiosity about how things work. If that’s you, then you’ll be pleased to know that in our next installment, we’ll explain just why you don’t want to flush paper down a Mexican toilet. If you want to talk to a company that can actually install some of the water treatment or water pressure systems we have discussed, contact Hydrotrol… they did everything in our house and it has worked flawlessly since the day it was installed.


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24 Responses to “Yucatan Plumbing”

  1. Well, I AM curious about the way things work, and this was fascinating. One question: The little bit I remember of my college chemistry makes me dubious about that magnetic ionization interferer thingie. Does it really work? I mean, better than an offering to Chaac?

  2. We will need to conduct a formal study, Dan. It will require that we set up three identical plumbing systems. We will leave the first system unchanged, which will serve as the control group. In the second, we’ll install the Rotoplas magnetic ion interference thingy. In the third, we’ll place an offering to Chaac. After one year, we’ll measure the sarro deposits and get back to you.

    Only one question: what is the proper offering to Chaac in this situation? An unblemished virgin seems like overkill.

  3. Thanks for the tutorial. I always wanted to understand those Rotoplas tanks on the building in Mex.

  4. Thanks for the informative piece on Yucatan plumbing. I’m printing the step by step troubleshooting in the event there are flow problems with the house in Merida I am about to close on.

  5. Thanks for the tutorial. I love this stuff, and now I know how to describe my “sarro” problem– the one faucet that allows only a trickle of hot water (cold runs fine)– when I call the plumber.

    And I can’t wait for your next installment– trying to explain the toilet paper thing to friends and family has me grasping at often contradictory explanations from those who live here, and I want to know the real scoop, as it were.

    Bravo, WGs!

  6. Thank you. As a single person getting ready to move to Mexico, I really need to know something about these things. It makes me feel less vulnerable as a woman.

    I hope I find that service people in Mexico are less likely to take advantage of what some here in the states might call “dumb broads”. From the articles I have read you seem to have a fairly good opinion of Mexican business people.

    I am not a skeptic by nature, but I do consider myself to be cautious in this area. It’s like when a woman is dealing with a mechanic. You hear all the time how they are taken advantage of. I don’t want to be one of them & the more informed I am, the less I will worry about it.

  7. Kaye, we’ve not encountered that problem here in Merida. If any other readers have, feel free to identify the culprits here.

  8. Thanks for the informative tour through my plumbing system in Centro.

    However, I must add one thing to your otherwise excellent and comprehensive explanation. When we moved into our house, we installed a hot water heater as the house had been plumbed for hot water in a recent remodel. However, for reasons that are too embarassing to explain here, we couldn’t get out water heater to work. No problem! What we discovered is that the water that came from the tinaco on the roof (and through the cold water pipes) was actually quite warm as a result of solar heating. On the other hand, the water that came from the non-functional water heater tank inside our house (and through the hot water pipes) was relatively cool.

    Go figure! For cold water (and you know that you want it sometimes in Merida, even for a shower!) we became reliant on the water heater that wouldn’t work, while the warm water came from the “cold water supply.” Just one more of those strange anomalies of life in Merida.

    P.S. The water heater now works.

  9. Too true, Steve. In fact, we often shut down our water heater during the cloudless days of early summer for that very reason.

  10. I am ready to hear about why no paper in the toliet system. Whenever we have gone to mexico we have done as they do, however, I have never understood WHY no toliet paper is suppost to go into the system.

  11. DeeDee:

    I’ve been wondering the same thing for a long time, maybe there was a trend of “saving” used paper for recycling purposes?

    Funny thing is, that if you go to the Marriott Hotel in Cancun, over the toilet you’ll see a warning sign, in Spanis & English that says:

    In English said “Please place used toilet paper in the toilet” but in spanish said the very opposite “No deposite el papel usado en el inodoro (Don’t place used toilet paper in the toilet)”.

    So I did what any proud bilingual Mexican would have done…

    I used 2 pieces, one went into the toilet and the other one went to the garbage can.

  12. Great article, fantastic graphics…. We have just finished remodeling our 100+ year old colonial house in Merida and reading this article is very reassuring our Plomero did it all right… and that it was worth asking so many questions. Love to hear more about filters and water quality. Muchas gracias. Patricio

  13. Excellent article. One of the best I’ve read describing any system and it’s potential problems.

    My sister is having problems with her builder and is unaccustomed to having water supply problems. This article explained the simple things we were having to guess at.

    Thank you very much.

    TP Answer 1:
    I stayed at an eco-resort and they said the septic system simply couldn’t handle decomposing the amount of paper used. I assumed the growth in the area has overwhelmed older systems. Smaller diameter pipes may also have something to do with it. Definitely not a definitive answer, but it’s all I got.

  14. I think it is because there is not enough pressure for it to go down and it will clog, another though is because it is on a septic sytem, and the countries are too poor to properly take care of them and dispose of all the waste, and makes it less time the septic tank needs to be emptied if there is no paper going in it. I have lived in DR for a while and this is something I have assumed…….?

  15. Another important tip to add:
    Secure the lid of your tinaco with a lock or something else if you don’t want it to get stolen.

    Yes, our tinaco lid was stolen. We didn’t know until we noticed particles in our water and decided to climb up and inspect the tinaco.

  16. Tinaco lids also blow off. Yes, those almost unliftably heavy cement tinaco lids blow off in the wind. It’s one more good reason to stay inside during a hurricane. But yeah, maybe someone swiped it to cover their own tinaco.

  17. This answers a big question I had. I kept seeing photos of houses with the big, defunct cement water tanks in the back yards but I’d also see the smaller plastic tanks on many roofs and wondered just what the water situation was.

    I’m new to this site and only gone through 1/2 dozen or so articles and you’ve already not only answered so many questions, you’ve done it in a very entertaining way.

    Thank you very much for the all the work you do.

  18. Today was our 3rd day in a house we have rented in Chelem and when we woke up we had no water. Couldn’t get in touch with the caretaker so I decided to google “water from cistern to tank” I hit the Mexican pages option and your article was the first one that came up. We figured out we had to prime the pump and you told us exactly how to do it. Now we are wet and wild. Of course, the husband will have to eat crow all day for making fun of me for googling it.

  19. Awesome!

  20. Mary,
    Every day or two, I come across something and think, “Wow, this never could have been possible before.” Before what? The Internet and Google. And, of course, The Working Gringos’ website too! Seriously though, look at the information and connections available on the Internet. It’s like the lights were turned on in some ancient buried library, except everything is up-to-date. It’s just amazing.

    Kids born these days will have so much information available to them and be able to use it in ways we cannot even imagine right now. Let’s hope they are wiser than us in many ways too.

  21. FWIW, an extremely hard-nosed, practical, no BS engineer I know who retired from IBM after working in computer hardware at the highest levels for 35 years, tried one of the magnetic water softener thingies as a last resort and was astounded to find that it worked. For him it was in a class with perpetual motion and anti-gravity, but he said he had to face the fact that, in a very hard water system, it worked. Note that if you get one of the wraparound systems for existing pipe, it won’t work with gavlanized metal pipe.

    This is a great tutorial…I’m an ex-mechanical contractor and was curious how everything worked here…..and this answered all my basic questions.

  22. ¡Esplendido! On our farm near Buffalo, I employ many of these methods, having several wells. I was told by an engineer that the magnets were mere witchcraft — but I can attest that they truly do the job. We are in a high limestone area; I use several powerful donut shaped ceramic magnets bought from Edmund Scientific which surround a .75″ copper pipe at the entrance to our holding tank. The system is free of scale now for over 20 years. And so is my point-source water heater.

    One problem I don’t like is the fungicidal aspect of the tinaco. I would add a charcoal filter on the exit side of the tank to remove any residual chemicals, and then add a uv Sterilight to kill organisms in the line, to enable drinking. This works effectively for our shallowest well, which I, and snakes and mice, are able to crawl into. Our water tests as potable by a credible testing outfit. ~eric.

  23. I can’t stop laughfing!
    You guys are great!
    LOL, I prefer to read your articles than read the news paper….lol.

  24. Thank you for the diagram and pictures . Makes it easy to identify for me when I look down into the tank. These articles are my favorite. As a single woman, home maintenance is so important in Merida.

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